Asinara: the former prison island with white donkeys
islands

Asinara: the former prison island with white donkeys

Asinara, a national park off north-west Sardinia, spent a century as a prison — now home to wild white donkeys and some of the clearest water around.

Quick facts

Best for
wildlife, boat trips, cycling, history
Best time to visit
May to September for boat access and swimming; spring for wildflowers and cooler walking
Days needed
A full day — Asinara is a day trip, not an overnight destination
Quick Answer

Can you stay overnight on Asinara?

No — there's no public accommodation on the island, and every visit is a day trip departing from and returning to Stintino or Porto Torres the same day. Boats leave mid-morning and return by early evening, so plan Asinara as a full day rather than a stop on a longer itinerary.

WhereOff Stintino, north-west Sardinia; boat access only
Known forA century as a quarantine station and prison; wild white donkeys today
Getting thereBoat from Stintino (most frequent) or Porto Torres
Getting aroundPark minibus, rented bike or e-bike, on foot; no private cars
Best timeMay-September for swimming; spring for wildflowers

An island that spent a century keeping people out

Asinara is a 20km sliver of granite and scrub visible from Stintino’s La Pelosa beach on a clear day, and for most of the 20th century it was closed to the public — not for conservation reasons, but because it held a quarantine station and leper colony from 1885, and later a high-security prison that operated until 1997, at one point holding mafia bosses under Italy’s strictest detention regime following the 1992 assassinations of judges Falcone and Borsellino. The prison closed in 1997, and the island became a national park the same year — one of only two true national parks in Sardinia, alongside the La Maddalena archipelago further east.

That closed history is exactly why Asinara feels unlike anywhere else on the island today. A century with essentially no agriculture, no roads built for cars, and almost no permanent population left the interior close to wild, and the coastline — now a fully protected marine reserve — has some of the clearest water in Sardinia. The old prison blocks at Cala d’Oliva and Fornelli still stand, walked past rather than restored, making a visit as much a piece of recent history as a nature outing.

The white donkeys

Asinara’s best-known residents are its donkeys — small, stocky and genuinely white or pale grey rather than the usual grey-brown, a result of a genetic condition (leucism, not albinism, since their eyes stay dark) unusually common in this isolated population. They roam freely with no fencing, alongside wild goats descended from abandoned farm stock and mouflon introduced decades ago that now breed wild in the scrubland. None are dangerous, all keep a natural distance, and none should be fed. Sightings are close to guaranteed rather than certain — the donkeys favour open ground near Cala Reale and the tracks between the old prison sites, and most organised tours build in at least one stop where they’re reliably grazing.

Getting there and around

Almost every visit starts with a short boat crossing from Stintino, which sits closer to the island and runs more frequent departures than Porto Torres. The full-day catamaran trip to Asinara island is the most complete single option, combining a proper landing with swim stops in the reserve’s clearest coves. Once ashore, private cars have never been allowed on Asinara — visitors move around by the park’s own minibus, by rented bike or e-bike, or on foot.

The Asinara minivan tour from Stintino covers real distance across the island in a day, taking in the former prison buildings and the best donkey-spotting stretches. For those who’d rather cover ground under their own power, renting a mountain bike in Porto Torres reaches gravel tracks and coastal stretches a minibus tour won’t linger at, though it demands reasonable fitness given the island’s modest hills and lack of shade.

An evening view from the mainland side

If your Asinara boat has already returned to Stintino and you want one more look at the island before the day ends, the Asinara and La Pelosa sunset private sailing tour covers the strait between Stintino and Asinara at the golden-hour end of the day, pairing the island’s silhouette with Sardinia’s most photographed beach in a single outing.

Marine reserve and water clarity

Asinara’s marine protected area extends well beyond the coves that day-trip boats stop at, and the water quality is a genuine step up from most of the Sardinian coastline — a byproduct of a century with essentially no coastal development. Kayaking and diving-grade clarity are both on offer here for visitors wanting more than a swim stop from a moving boat; our Asinara National Park guide covers the kayaking, sailing and dive options in fuller detail, including operators running from both Stintino and Porto Torres.

A day trip, not an overnight

There’s no public accommodation on Asinara and no realistic way to stay beyond a single day — facilities on the island are limited by design to a couple of seasonal snack kiosks, no shops of note, and no lodging open to visitors. A typical full-day trip leaves Stintino’s harbour by mid-morning, crosses the strait in 30-45 minutes, and spends the middle of the day touring by minibus or on foot from the landing point at Cala Reale or Cala d’Oliva, with one or two swim stops built into most itineraries. Expect to be back in Stintino by early evening.

Cycling across the reserve

Beyond the guided minivan tours, Asinara has become a genuine destination for cyclists, with a network of gravel and unpaved tracks crossing the island’s interior that see none of the road traffic found on the mainland. Renting a bike or e-bike in Porto Torres before the crossing, or occasionally on the island itself in season, lets visitors set their own pace across terrain a minibus tour would only pass through briefly.

It’s more physically demanding than the standard tour given the modest but real hills and the almost total lack of shade for most of the route, so a reasonable fitness level and plenty of water matter more here than on a typical coastal cycle. See our cycling in Sardinia guide for how Asinara compares with the island’s other off-road cycling regions.

What a typical price and booking window looks like

Full-day catamaran and minivan tours from Stintino generally run €50-90pp depending on the operator and whether lunch is included, with shorter half-day speedboat options costing somewhat less. In July and August, particularly for the more complete full-day itineraries, booking several days ahead is worth doing given the island’s genuinely limited daily visitor capacity — a deliberate park management decision rather than a simple shortage of boats. Shoulder-season visits in May, June and September see noticeably fewer crowds at the same donkey-spotting stops and swim coves, without much difference in weather reliability.

Combining Asinara with the rest of the north-west

Asinara pairs naturally with the rest of a north-west Sardinia stay. Stintino itself and its La Pelosa beach guide cover the mainland side of the strait, while Alghero, 45 minutes south, has its own coastline in Alghero and Capo Caccia boat trips. If Asinara is one stop on a wider wildlife-focused trip, see national parks of Sardinia for how it compares with the wild horses of the Giara, and Sardinian wildlife: what you can see for the island’s other notable species.

Anyone arriving by ferry through Porto Torres can fold Asinara into the first or last day of a trip without much detour — see ferries to Sardinia and our driving in Sardinia guide for getting to Stintino from either of the island’s main airports.

Frequently asked questions about visiting Asinara

Can you stay overnight on Asinara?

No public accommodation operates on the island; all visits are day trips departing from and returning to Stintino or Porto Torres the same day.

Is Asinara safe to visit given its prison history?

Yes — the prison closed in 1997 and the site now operates purely as a national park. The former cell blocks are viewed from the outside on organised tours rather than entered freely.

Do you need to book a tour, or can you take a ferry over independently?

Scheduled public ferries exist in season, but most visitors book an organised boat tour because it bundles the crossing with transport around the island — without a minibus, bike or long walk arranged in advance, options for seeing the island once you land are limited.

Are the white donkeys guaranteed to be visible?

Not contractually, since this is a wild population, but sightings are highly likely — most tours stop specifically where the donkeys are known to graze, and the island’s small size makes an encounter more likely than not.

What should I bring for a day on Asinara?

Water, sun protection, comfortable walking or cycling shoes, and swimwear if your tour includes a stop in the marine reserve. Food options on the island are limited to a few seasonal kiosks.

Is Asinara suitable for a half-day trip?

Half-day speedboat options exist and are worth it if time is tight, but they cover a fraction of the island. A full-day catamaran or minivan tour is the better choice if Asinara is the priority for the day.

Is cycling on Asinara suitable for beginners?

The park’s own minivan tour is the easier option for casual visitors; the gravel tracks reward a reasonable fitness level given the modest hills and near-total lack of shade, so beginners should stick to shorter routes near Cala Reale rather than a full-island circuit.

How far in advance should I book an Asinara tour?

A few days ahead outside peak season is generally enough; in July and August, book closer to a week ahead given the island’s genuinely limited daily visitor capacity.

Is Asinara better visited from Stintino or Porto Torres?

Stintino, since it’s closer to the island and runs more frequent departures across a wider range of operators; Porto Torres is a reasonable alternative if you’re already based there for a ferry arrival or departure.

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